Among the stories history students have heard about China is how anyone wanting to work for the Emperor’s government had to take killer exams. This is one of the places where that happened. In the late 19th century all the families with the surname Chen in the Liwan district, around Guangzhou, gave money to build a place for all clan members to stay in the city when studying for their exams. The resulting building, also called the Chen Clan Academy and Folk Arts Museum, is stunning. Every surface is carved wood, brick, stone, or wrought iron. This kind of thing is my Disneyland.
Every clan had one of these “lineage halls.” This is one of the few left.
There’s a huge, wide plaza in front of the Academy – this is at the opening.
One of the gates in and out of the main plaza before the Academy.
The front of the Academy.
That’s carved, painted wood along the top. Below, the brickwork has had reliefs carved into it.
The main door into the building.
One of the Academy’s many courtyards.
Sadly, the woodwork is being weathered away.
This piece has been completely covered over to keep it from being damaged further.
This one has been restored.
This is a statue of two would-be thieves getting caught in an old-style Cantonese door!
One of the doors in person. Quite a few older houses in Guangzhou still have these.
This was found in pieces over several decades. It was only reassembled in OCTOBER LAST YEAR!
Archway of grape bunches. I can only guess this was the wine room.
Hallway along the side of the building. On the right is a courtyard, on the left are some of the enclosed rooms.
The doors to one of the rooms.
Windows looking out into a courtyard.
The panels are etched, stained glass.
The panels from inside with the sun coming through!
Some of the carved furniture on display.
Lest you think there’s no British influence in China…
Leading outside…
Between the main building and the outer wall.
A lion guarding the path.
This is called “Storytelling”.
Enamel works.
More of the fabulous furniture people used.
The CEILING even!
Looking out from one of the verandas to a courtyard.
The courtyards are partitioned by huge wooden screens, and every panel is carved with a scene from history or legend. This one is a scene from The Romance of the Three Kingdoms.
The Academy’s garden.
Houses butting right up against the back wall of the garden!
On my way out. Who would have ever noticed this one (besides tourists), but it’s decorated anyway…
I’m a history buff, so I’d heard of Canton. I knew nothing about it, I’d just heard that it was an important port city to the colonial British in Cathay. Cathay is China, and Canton is Guangzhou, the capital of Guangdong province. And I can’t believe I knew nothing about it before coming here, because it’s a Tier 1 city…meaning in terms of population and economy, China ranks Guangzhou at the same level as Beijing and Shanghai!
I stayed in a hotel on Shamian Island, which is where the British — and other colonists — set up shop; company headquarters, banks, tennis clubs. All of their 19th and early 20th century buildlings are now protected, and house galleries, hotels, restaurants, and consulates.
The Victory Hotel, where I stayed.
Please note the tree being held up by…other trees!
The canal and brides on the north side of the island.
Lots of photos of beautiful buildings. Be warned.
And lots of centuries-old trees…
Down the centre of the island is a long promenade, with different-shaped paths and trees.
I can’t say if this electricity is “modern” or…not.
Starbucks. I know. But hey, they chose a lovely location.
A sample of what the buildings were used for.
See the running track?
The ORIGINAL Bank of Taiwan!
Our Lady of Lourdes, Guangzhou Parish!
Looking up at the vestry.
Inside the church courtyard.
Traditional red lanterns on a modern hotel in a 19th century building.
The Armani shop housed in here must feel right at home…
The veranda of my hotel’s restaurant–it sits on the third floor.
Shamian Greenway — a long park running along the south side of the island, right against the Pearl River.
The Rose Garden restaurant.
This is a fish market!
Guangzhou was the first place I saw these New Year decorations. For all I know they’re real fireworks!
Christ Church, Anglican.
This church’s gate was open, so I slipped into the courtyard…
